Thursday, September 23, 2010
Consideration About Rain Garden
Our natural environment provides a natural groundwater filtering process. Rainwater flows into low places, where native wildflowers and grasses soak up some of the water. The remainder slowly soaks into the ground over 24-48 hours. In a natural environment such as this, streams and creeks are fed by cool groundwater, which supplies the streams at a steady rate. Rain gardens help to replace what we have taken away by building and paving. It slows runoff waste, increases infiltration, decrease surface run-off from roofs, paved areas, and road, and reduces the risk of flooding. Not all subsurface water will soak into the ground water. Surface run off water that is not absorbed in the rain garden slows down significantly from the swale and vegetative barrier which reduces sedimentation and pollution further downstream. Because the water moves slower in the ground than it does over paving, rain gardens can ease peak flow more than just reducing the volume of water reaching the outlet.
It will be best to plant a rain garden in a depression that is projected to take all, or as much excess rainwater run-off from a house or other building and its associated landscape as possible. The plants should be a selection of native wetland edge vegetation, such as sedges, rushes, ferns, shrubs and trees and absorb the excess water, and through the process of transpiration put water vapor back into the air. A more wide-ranging definition covers all the possible components that can be used to capture, channel, divert, and make the most of the natural rain and snow that falls on a property. In developed areas, low areas are filled in and the ground is leveled or paved, and water is taken into storm drains. This causes many problems. First of all, the streams that are fed by storm drains are subjected to sudden surges of water each time it rains, which contributes to erosion and flooding. Also, the water is warmer than the groundwater that normally feeds a stream, which upsets the delicate system. Warmer water cannot hold as much dissolved oxygen. Many fish and other creatures in the streams are unable to live in an environment with fluctuating temperatures.
Probably best place for a Rain gardens location is near a drainpipe from a building’s roof (with or without rain barrels), although if there’s a basement, a French drain may be used to direct the rainwater to a location farther from the building. Normally, a rain garden—or a series of rain gardens—is the endpoint of a drainage, but sometimes it can be designed as a pass-through system where water will percolate through a series of gravel layers and be captured by a French drain under the gravel and carried to a storm water system. This type of gardens are beneficial for many reasons. They can lessen the effects of drought, help filter some pollutants from run off, make paved areas more attractive, and provide interesting setting opportunities. They also encourage wildlife and biodiversity, tie together buildings and their surrounding environments in attractive and environmentally advantageous ways, and make a significant contribution to important environmental problems that affect us all. This garden type provides an ideal way to use and optimize any rain that falls, reducing or avoiding the need for additional water usage or irrigation. They allow a household or building to deal with excessive rainwater runoff without burdening the public storm water networks. Rain gardens differ from retention basins, in that the water will infiltrate the ground within a day or two. This creates the advantage that the rain garden does not allow mosquitoes to breed.
Labels:
ancient garden,
garden planning,
garden talks,
rain garden
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